Policemen escorting a
vehicle carrying goods from Muzaffarabad, capital of Pakistani-controlled
Kashmir, to Uri in Indian-administered Kashmir on Oct. 21, 2008.
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On Oct. 21, 2008, a caravan of
trucks decorated with garlands crossed a tiny bridge over a stream in Kashmir
and made history. Aman Setu, or Peace Bridge, is on the Line of Control, the
volatile, disputed border dividing the Indian and Pakistani-controlled parts of
Kashmir. The last time a civilian vehicle had crossed that bridge was before
India and Pakistan fought their first war over Kashmir in October 1947, before
the lines of control were drawn.
The goods trucks, which began
their journey in Baramulla in Kashmir Valley, drove 90 kilometers (56 miles) to
Chakothi in Pakistan-controlled-Kashmir. A photograph from the last town near
the Line of Control in the valley captured the elation of the Kashmiris: Abdul
Rehman Shagoo, a businessman from Baramulla, is hanging from the door of his
garlanded pickup truck. He wears a sheepskin cap and a wide smile. Mr. Shagoo’s
truck, loaded with onions, was one of the first to cross the bridge over the
Line of Control.
Five years later, Mr. Shagoo, 72,
is a grim, distraught man. Hostilities between India and Pakistan, clashes
between their armies on the Line of Control, and rigid, absurd rules have
destroyed the trade across the Line of Control and led to massive losses for
Kashmiri traders. “We thought it is a great step forward,” said Mr. Shagoo.
“But the government policies surrounding the trade have turned many of us into
beggars.”
After several years of diplomatic
talks aimed at ameliorating relations and moving toward a resolution of the
Kashmir dispute, India and Pakistan made the startling decision to run a bus
service in April 2005 between Srinagar and Muzaffarabad that allowed Kashmiris
on either side of the Line of Control to visit relatives on the other side. In
September 2008, the two countries followed it up with a decision to allow trade
between the two parts of Kashmir.
A Joint Working Group on
cross-Line of Control Confidence Building Measures established the modalities
of the trade. The trade was to be conducted on Tuesdays and Wednesdays, and 25
trucks from both sides would cross the Line of Control on each day. A
list of 21 goods that the two sides could barter was made, which included
carpets, shawls, sandals, wooden furniture, vegetables, and fruits.
“When the announcement came, the
authorities soon told us we can’t give or take money and that we could only
exchange goods for goods,” Mr. Shagoo said. “It was an almost impossible
proposition, but we went ahead with it, kept it going because of our
historical, emotional ties with people on the other side of Kashmir.”
India and Pakistan decided on the
medieval system of barter as the mode of trade across the disputed border
because no Indian bank has operated in Pakistan and no Pakistani bank has a
branch in India since 1965. Between 1947 and 1965, trade relations between
India and Pakistan were relatively better. Indian banks operated out of
Pakistan, and Pakistani banks operated out of India. After the 1965
India-Pakistan war, the banks were seized as enemy properties. Trade began to
die.
India and Pakistan also refused to
allow the Kashmiri traders to travel across the Line of Control to meet the
businessmen they traded with on the other side of the divide. The deals are
made through a relative in the other Kashmir. They make the business
arrangements mostly through Skype conversations. Although a small number of
traders have been granted visas to travel across the Line of Control, the
difficulty of getting a visa makes it a daunting task for small-scale traders.
Men walking past the check
point center at the Line of Control in Chakothi, Pakistan-occupied Kashmir, on
Sept. 18.
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India established a Trade
Facilitation Center at Salamabad village in Uri disctrict near the Line of
Control. At the trade center, the officials issue a certificate that the goods being
traded fall within the agreed 21 categories. Without the certificate, no goods
can cross the border. The trade center also approves the goods coming from
Pakistan-controlled-Kashmir before a trader from the Indian-controlled-Kashmir
can take possession. “Every time, the officials would make excuses, and I had
to bribe them with 10,000 rupees to get the goods passed,” said Mr. Shagoo.
Initially the traders made some
profits, but the difficult of doing business was followed by diminishing
returns. “I took a bank loan against some property I had and started doing the
trade,” said Mr. Shagoo. He got a visa and visited Pakistan-controlled-Kashmir,
where he entered into a business arrangement with some relatives.
Mr. Shagoo began sending his goods
to his business partners in Pakistan-controlled-Kashmir. His business partners
took advantage of the distances and lack of communication between them and
refused to keep up their part of the barter. He is waiting for them to send the
goods they had promised. He has not been able to get a visa to travel to
Pakistan-controlled-Kashmir to confront his business partners. “I have lost
about 80 lakh rupees (8 million rupees, or $129,704). No goods have come in
return. I have been waiting for two years for the goods trucks to arrive, but
they have not come,” said Mr. Shagoo. “I live off my wife’s pension.”
Despite its perilous existence
within the usually bitter and hostile politics between the two countries, the
cross-Line of Control trade has recorded an impressive economic potential over
the last five years. According to a report by Conciliation Resources, a
nonprofit organization based in London, the trade has continuously grown to
register monetary value worth $340 million in four years since its start.
But that potential has been
threatened by a recent Indian government order banning every Kashmiri who has a
relative on the Pakistan-controlled-Kashmir from participating in the
cross-Line of Control trade. The traders came to know of this when on a late
August day, Asif Lone, chairman of the Salamabad-Chakothi Trade Union, received
a letter at his home in Baramulla from officials at the facilitation center,
stating that some traders have been “debarred” from engaging in the trade.
On the following day, he was given
the documents of the order issued by the senior superintendent of the Criminal
Investigation Department, the intelligence wing of the state police in India,
which named the 42 blacklisted traders. The document also listed their
addresses and parentage and stated a reason for their ban in the “remarks”
section.
One excerpt: “Khazir Mohammad
Dar-the subject is aged about 55 years, qualification 8th and a businessman by profession. There is
nothing against him from the criminal/militancy point of view. However, son of
the subject namely Mushtaq Ahmed Dar has exfiltrated to PoK in year 1996 and is
still there. He is taking care of his trade across. Therefore his name maybe
debarred from the traders list.” The list goes on, quoting similar remarks next
to each of the 42 names.
“If you had to blacklist people,
you should have done that five years ago and made it clear that people who have
relatives on the Pakistani side cannot engage in the trade,” a trader based in
Baramulla told me. “Then nobody would have done this trade. With whom can we do
the trade if we cannot do it with our relatives? We don’t know Pakistanis. Five
years ago, the Indian government said that they want to engage young people in
it.”
As India claims the
Pakistan-controlled-Kashmir as its own, the Indian government views the trade
between the two Kashmirs as between two parts of India. And India does not want
goods produced in Pakistan to be part of this trade. In August, officials at
the Salamabad trade center received an order from the Indian Ministry of
Finance that only goods made in the Pakistan-controlled part of Kashmir should
be brought into the Indian Trade Facilitation Center as part of the cross-Line
of Control trade.
The decision by India’s Ministry
of Finance practically puts an end to the trade. According to the Kashmiri
traders, Pakistan-controlled-Kashmir does not produce anything radically
different from the local produce in Indian-controlled part. Most of the trade
across the Line of Control had consisted of goods produced across India and
Pakistan.
“If they ban goods that come from
rest of Pakistan, then there will be hardly anything left to trade,” Akhter
Hussain, a trader based in Baramulla, told me. Mr. Hussain gave up on the
cross-border trade after suffering major losses a few years earlier.
The traders allege that issuing of
the order has led to more corruption by officials at the facilitation center.
There is no mechanism currently in place to determine whether the received
goods are from Pakistani-administered Kashmir or not. The officials determine
this merely on the basis of doubt. The traders say that many get the clearance
by bribing the officials.
The sudden imposition of this rule
after five years has shocked the traders. “This is a clear violation of
standard operating procedures agreed upon by both the governments when the
trade was started,” said Mubeen Shah, the chairman of the Jammu and Kashmir
Joint Chamber of Commerce and Industry, the first formal joint establishment
across the Line of Control. The procedures of trade, according to agreement
between India and Pakistan, cannot be unilaterally amended by either country.
“I personally have a feeling that
starting this trade was just a diplomatic gimmick to tell the world that we are
doing this,” said Mr. Shah. “It was not about providing a genuine opportunity
to Kashmiris that could contribute to peace.”
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